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Review-Chopard: A Quality Milestone...L.U.C Qualite Fleurier
"But the most serious one is the Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone."
Quoted by Philippe Dufour in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore).
The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF) is inspired by a 1950s Chopard model. As it is manufactured in Fleurier, it pays homage to the brand's founding father, Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
Slightly slimmer, the new model has retained the exact proportions of its predecessor. The characteristic 1950s design is distinguished by its elegant sobriety (not surprising as immediately after WWII, it was a building period for most countries).
Though this piece looks retro and may not excite some, please hold the thoughts for a moment and read through this post
I will show you this piece of 1.5 year-young L.U.C QF.
The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF) Ref : 161896-5001 is a RG case of diameter 39.50mm. Limited to 250 pieces, created to commemorate the launch of the "Fleurier Quality Certification".
The dial is of 18K gold. The conical indices ( made of gold and looks like Turkish numeral) are arranged around a black chapter-ring, with a small seconds-hand located at 6 o'clock.
The 3 gold hands are of "feuille" style.
There is a small detail about the small-second subdial. It was circularly machine-turned, thus you could see some rippling-effect on the sub-dial.
The sapphire crystal is glare-proofed with double Anti-reflective (AR) coating.
With the double AR coating, legibility is no issue at any angle and even with a direct light source hitting directly.
The QF follows the traditional case-making. The case is not a single piece directly formed out. It consists of the main body and 4 lbeautifully finished lugs which are carefully hand-soldered to ensure of same height.
The diameter 6mm L.U.C signed crown is also of solid gold.
The Hour & Minute hands and hour-indices are coated with Super-Luminova to ensure time is readable even in the dark. The luminescent is very even and last for a while if fully charged.
See how the lugs are curved downward to embrace the wrist.
The QF is also wear pretty flat. Total thickness is at 8.70mm...very sleek and can easily slipped into the cuff.
Markings on Case & Buckle
All gold-parts must be marked clearly as per legislation in every country.
The stamped marks are always of close proximity. The local assay office will carry out analysis to determine the amount of a precious metal in an alloy and to hallmark the piece if it is up to standard.
This is the manufacturer's or maker's mark which is registered with the authorities.
L.U.C manufactures its own casing and related parts from raw to finish.
On another lug, it was stamped with the standard mark indicating the parts per thousand.
For this is case, it is 750 gold which is 3/4 gold or 750 parts per 1000, which is also known as 18K (18parts of 24).
Finally the hallmark ( in the form of the head of the St. Bernard dog has been used in Switzerland since 1995) which is stamped by the assay office.
This is a compulsory mark for all watch cases which contain precious metal!
The Interesting Hand Engraved Caseback
The solid caseback is individually hand-engraved by master engravers.
Every piece is a unique piece and have some shots of the engraving.
While deciding to purchase this piece, thought that a solid caseback is minus, as could not see the beautifully finished L.U.C caliber.
Indeed it is little or no sacrifice of not having a see-through caseback for a piece of craftwork, as I knew inside it is a piece of solid engine.
Must say, no regret at all... after seeing the work under a loupe..... here are some pictures of the engraving.
(Shots were taken using a P&S camera and a 10x loupe... so the focus may not be sharp )
How many bees?
A zoom-in view... every stroke of hand-engraving.
Please bear in mind, this picture is under magnification. See the masterful cut of those extremely small parallel lines...simply marvellous.
This picture displayed hand-engraving versus tool-stamped. The figure'250' should be stamped.
The 18K gold ardillon buckle...observe that L.U.C did not go the easy way of stamping the brand-logo instead it could be a piece which need more processing time (even by CNC milling) to give the emboss-logo.
All the marks on the back of the gold-buckle.
The superbly finished Caliber 9.96 with the solid case-back removed...a solid beautiful engine under the bonnet
The Caliber 9.96 is a 29 jewels automatic with a solid 22K micro-rotor beating at 28,000 vph. The movement diameter is 27.40mm. The thickness is 3.30mm and it houses double-stacked barrels to give 65-hour power reserve.
A short note for a watch to qualify for the extremely strict Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
For more information about FQF, please visit (www.fleurier-quality.com).
Firstly the movement must be COSC-certified. After which the cased-up watch must passed the "Chronofiable" ageing-test (which subject the watch to 21 days of shocks,cold, heat and humidity).
The movement is also subjected to aesthetic finishing inspection...which should be equal to Geneva Seal standard.
Lastly, the case-up watch must pass the "Fleuritest-machine" which simulates the watch being worn over 24-hour cycle comprising of alternating active and calm phases. At the end of the Fleuritest, the rate of watch must maintain 0 to +5 seconds per day!
This is about Precision (operating in a tight-band) in a non-static position.
To summarise, in order to pass the FQF, both form and function must excel!
A quote by Philippe Dufour (in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore) by Timmy Tan):
"But the most serious one is the Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone."
A few pictures of the later QF to commemorate L.U.C's 10th Anniversary
Ref : 161896-1002, dark-grey dial in WG case with see-through caseback and limited to 250 pieces too.
A slight difference, the minute-ring and central dial was circularly engine-turned.
2 pics of the open-caseback.
Wrist-shots
Conclusions
The L.U.C QF is a honest watch from the angle of form, functions and price.
This piece of haute horologerie ensures the owner, he has a reliable top-of-the-range watch with exceptional aesthetic finish which will perform precisely even in rugged condition.
Also pretty versatile, could be for casual and definitely for formal wear. Strangely this piece, I like it more as time goes by.
Like all true classics, it will stand the test of time which could possibly be enjoyed by your next few generations.
Kong
Quoted by Philippe Dufour in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore).
The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF) is inspired by a 1950s Chopard model. As it is manufactured in Fleurier, it pays homage to the brand's founding father, Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
Slightly slimmer, the new model has retained the exact proportions of its predecessor. The characteristic 1950s design is distinguished by its elegant sobriety (not surprising as immediately after WWII, it was a building period for most countries).
Though this piece looks retro and may not excite some, please hold the thoughts for a moment and read through this post
I will show you this piece of 1.5 year-young L.U.C QF.
The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF) Ref : 161896-5001 is a RG case of diameter 39.50mm. Limited to 250 pieces, created to commemorate the launch of the "Fleurier Quality Certification".
The dial is of 18K gold. The conical indices ( made of gold and looks like Turkish numeral) are arranged around a black chapter-ring, with a small seconds-hand located at 6 o'clock.
The 3 gold hands are of "feuille" style.
There is a small detail about the small-second subdial. It was circularly machine-turned, thus you could see some rippling-effect on the sub-dial.
The sapphire crystal is glare-proofed with double Anti-reflective (AR) coating.
With the double AR coating, legibility is no issue at any angle and even with a direct light source hitting directly.
The QF follows the traditional case-making. The case is not a single piece directly formed out. It consists of the main body and 4 lbeautifully finished lugs which are carefully hand-soldered to ensure of same height.
The diameter 6mm L.U.C signed crown is also of solid gold.
The Hour & Minute hands and hour-indices are coated with Super-Luminova to ensure time is readable even in the dark. The luminescent is very even and last for a while if fully charged.
See how the lugs are curved downward to embrace the wrist.
The QF is also wear pretty flat. Total thickness is at 8.70mm...very sleek and can easily slipped into the cuff.
Markings on Case & Buckle
All gold-parts must be marked clearly as per legislation in every country.
The stamped marks are always of close proximity. The local assay office will carry out analysis to determine the amount of a precious metal in an alloy and to hallmark the piece if it is up to standard.
This is the manufacturer's or maker's mark which is registered with the authorities.
L.U.C manufactures its own casing and related parts from raw to finish.
On another lug, it was stamped with the standard mark indicating the parts per thousand.
For this is case, it is 750 gold which is 3/4 gold or 750 parts per 1000, which is also known as 18K (18parts of 24).
Finally the hallmark ( in the form of the head of the St. Bernard dog has been used in Switzerland since 1995) which is stamped by the assay office.
This is a compulsory mark for all watch cases which contain precious metal!
The Interesting Hand Engraved Caseback
The solid caseback is individually hand-engraved by master engravers.
Every piece is a unique piece and have some shots of the engraving.
While deciding to purchase this piece, thought that a solid caseback is minus, as could not see the beautifully finished L.U.C caliber.
Indeed it is little or no sacrifice of not having a see-through caseback for a piece of craftwork, as I knew inside it is a piece of solid engine.
Must say, no regret at all... after seeing the work under a loupe..... here are some pictures of the engraving.
(Shots were taken using a P&S camera and a 10x loupe... so the focus may not be sharp
)How many bees?
A zoom-in view... every stroke of hand-engraving.
Please bear in mind, this picture is under magnification. See the masterful cut of those extremely small parallel lines...simply marvellous.
This picture displayed hand-engraving versus tool-stamped. The figure'250' should be stamped.
The 18K gold ardillon buckle...observe that L.U.C did not go the easy way of stamping the brand-logo instead it could be a piece which need more processing time (even by CNC milling) to give the emboss-logo.
All the marks on the back of the gold-buckle.
The superbly finished Caliber 9.96 with the solid case-back removed...a solid beautiful engine under the bonnet
The Caliber 9.96 is a 29 jewels automatic with a solid 22K micro-rotor beating at 28,000 vph. The movement diameter is 27.40mm. The thickness is 3.30mm and it houses double-stacked barrels to give 65-hour power reserve.
A short note for a watch to qualify for the extremely strict Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
For more information about FQF, please visit (www.fleurier-quality.com).
Firstly the movement must be COSC-certified. After which the cased-up watch must passed the "Chronofiable" ageing-test (which subject the watch to 21 days of shocks,cold, heat and humidity).
The movement is also subjected to aesthetic finishing inspection...which should be equal to Geneva Seal standard.
Lastly, the case-up watch must pass the "Fleuritest-machine" which simulates the watch being worn over 24-hour cycle comprising of alternating active and calm phases. At the end of the Fleuritest, the rate of watch must maintain 0 to +5 seconds per day!
This is about Precision (operating in a tight-band) in a non-static position.
To summarise, in order to pass the FQF, both form and function must excel!
A quote by Philippe Dufour (in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore) by Timmy Tan):
"But the most serious one is the Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone."
--------------------
A few pictures of the later QF to commemorate L.U.C's 10th Anniversary
Ref : 161896-1002, dark-grey dial in WG case with see-through caseback and limited to 250 pieces too.
A slight difference, the minute-ring and central dial was circularly engine-turned.
2 pics of the open-caseback.
Wrist-shots
Conclusions
The L.U.C QF is a honest watch from the angle of form, functions and price.
This piece of haute horologerie ensures the owner, he has a reliable top-of-the-range watch with exceptional aesthetic finish which will perform precisely even in rugged condition.
Also pretty versatile, could be for casual and definitely for formal wear. Strangely this piece, I like it more as time goes by.
Like all true classics, it will stand the test of time which could possibly be enjoyed by your next few generations.
Kong
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