KIH[Purist]
12044
Chopard Academy in Tokyo
Dec 02, 2014,07:02 AM
If you are reading this, many of you already know what are so good or great about Chopard and why, how. I have attended "Chopard Academy " to attempt to teach people who may know Chopard, but not much about its Men's watch and history, etc. Thanks to Chopard Japan, Chronos Japan, and Ishida, one of the ADs for Chopard, this event was in fact educating for even me, too.
The lecturer was, as always, Hirota-san, one of the best known watch writer in Japan:
With Chronos Japan where he writes.
And on his wrist was.....
Started from the "attraction" "what are so great" about Chopard. 1. Durable, last long - e.g. how the case was made
2. High Quality - e.g. L.U.C, Happy Diamonds
3. Well accepted globally - e.g. Mille Miglia
"Do not underestimate this brand"
1. Durable, last long Chopard makes its cases from the bullion in-house.
All the cases are forged and machined in-house.
All the press mold in its entire history are kept - meaning, no matter how old your watch is, the case can be re-made and you could get a brand new case for your vintage watch. Making a press mold alone is expensive (many, many brands or case makers only machines the case skipping pressing or forging, just to make it cheaply), and keeping them all is also space consuming and again expensive as an operation. Most other high-end brands which does forge the cases do not keep all the historical press molds for such a long time.
If I may add, forging SS cases is not as common as you may think. Only Chopard and Grand Seiko comes to my mind. Why do you think high-end watch brands make no or few SS models? Because forging SS cases is really time consuming (more times press required, higher temperature heating in between) and doesn't pay enough. Precious metal forging is done by Patek and such, though, because forging is easier (fewer times, lower temperature) and the price may justify.
And why forging is good? Just like "Katana" or sword, by pressing or hitting the heated metal, it makes the material much stronger, harder, and at the molecule level, it would be tighter and when polished the surface becomes really like the mirror). The photo below shows all the press mods necessary to make ONE case - from the roughest to the finishing one.
2. High Quality L.U.C XPS, for example.....
a. Harder parts - gears are made from Copper Beryllium
b. Designed to last long - e.g. automatic movement with ratchet system
c. Maintenance system is pretty comprehensive
Built the factory for L.U.C alone beforehand, in Fleurier. Normally, new factory is made because some division is getting larger and no capacity for the existing factory. But in this case, Chopard made the factory for L.U.C before such thing happens but they built it because they felt it necessary.
L.U.C 96.01-L
According to Hirota-san, this is the best micro-rotor automatic movement ever made. This project involved very well known watchmakers and that is why this is considered one of the "best of the best"
As an aside, Hirota-san's three best automatic movement in history: a. Patek 27-460
b. Audemars Puguet 2121/ Vacheron Constantin 1120
c. Chopard L.U.C 96 and variants
These movements were made possible because for a. and b., it was 60s and the cost of the watchmakers was pretty low. But now, or in 90s when Chopard made the 96, it was not such a "good" time. Still, Chopard aimed for the best, with no expense spared.
Oh, AP 2121 happened to be on my wrist, too...
Automatic movement with ratchet system - this is very time consuming to make, but the result is the gear is touched by the ratchet each time the power is accumulated, thus the friction is minimal, while normal automatic movement has gears touching each other all the time and therefore needs replacement of the parts much more often.
L.U.C Chrono One is, again, according to Hirota-san, is one the best automatic chronograph out there. Why? Hmnnnn.... he told us, but I can't write it here but you would understand.
The heart of the Chrono One is L.U.C 03.03-L
L.U.C 1963 Anniversary Chronometer - one of the best hand wind movement.
The back side of the L.U.C Anniversary Chronometer - L.U.C. 63.01-L
And now talk about the latest standard - Qualite Fleurier - the most rigorous, strict standard anyone can think of. So much so that only a handful brands including Chopard watches are given the certification. Why?
...because the test includes: a. on the machine which mimics the movement of human's arm/ wrist in a day, the watch must be accurate within +5 or -5 sec per 24 hours (meaning, only "5 sec window"). COSC standard is -4 to +6 in 5 positions (10 sec window), but it is measured in the static state (meaning, the tray doesn't move while it is measuring).
b. A very brutal test by which 5 out of 100 or 10 out of 200 are actually broken. e.g. hit the watches from the side, like at the golf practice range.
c. And lastly, but not the least, the watch must be 100% made in Swiss, including all the parts and assembly.
Here is the video series of the Qualite Fleurier Foundation (ENG version)
* Please be patient - 9 videos played all at once. Very interesting. You will see the town of Fleurier, and many other.
Other aspects of "High Quality" - NOT only L.U.C
For example, "Happy Sport" has diamonds or round cases full of diamonds are in the watch. But the case has been polished to become like the mirror and that's why the diamonds looks "sparkling".
3. Well accepted globally. What does this mean? Let's see.
Chopard sponsors motor sports - there are many other brands who do the same, but it is not easy for the less recognized brands. Remember here again that Chopard is one of the few brands left which are owned and managed by a family - meaning, no strange pressure from the shareholders and they can do whatever they think right and fit.
Also, the family bought the Hotel de Vendome. Again, this is not what can be done just because the buyer has money. Must be a recognized big name which is worthy of the acquirer or the new owner of the long history monumental establishment. In Europe, things seem to still work that way and I think that's good.
Also Chopard is the sponsor at Cannes Film Festival. Again, you just can't be the sponsor just because you want to and you have money.
The examples here are: On the left, you should check the bezel polish - must look like the mirror.
And on the right, it is almost a "taboo" to use red or yellow color for the high-end watches because those colors wouldn't stick to the surface of the metal so well. But Chopard does spends lots of time and efforts to make it last as the other color.
And the point here is: Chopard can enjoy these fame and honorable role in the world, because they have been making great products and contributed to the world to begin with .
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Now please look at the watches on display.... Just wow, for me....
2012 version Qualite Fleurier (without QF logo on the dial)
Simple, but great quality inside.
Ah, chocolate for the guests
This year version with "QF" logo on the dial.
Very simple, elegant....
I hope you enjoy reading - hope I didn't repeat too obvious things for you Chopard fans!
Thank you:
Mr. Stephan Ritzmann, CEO, Chopard Japan
Ms. Yayoi Sasaki, PR/Marketing, Chopard Japan
Mr. Yasutaka Arai, Sales Manager, Chopard Japan
Mr. Soichiro Matsuzaki, CEO, Chronos Japan
Mr. Masayuki Hirota, Head Writer, Chronos Japan
And, ISHIDA who provided the venue for the fun evening.
Best,
Ken
This message has been edited by MTF on 2014-12-02 09:52:19 This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-12-11 08:54:18