amanico
[JLC Moderator]
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Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition: Pictures and Hands On Review
I had to wait till last Monday to see this Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition in the real life.
Melvyn already told you the story behind this Chronograph so I will make it short.
PuristS and Chopard are long time friends, and once upon a tile, the idea was born to make a chronograph together, a collaboration between the brand and PuristSPro.
The first discussions started in 2007, but things got a faster rythm during our IGOTT 2 in Las Vegas, in June 2011.
As you can guess, discussions were passionate all along the elaboration of this project... 2 or 3 Subdials? What size? Manual movement, or automatic? Which metal? Solid or see through case back? What kind of crown? Pushers?
Well, all the détails of a nice / fine Chronograph.
But the will or desire to lead this project to the end was so strong that both parties found an agreement on some détails.
The key points were:
- A steel case,
- A Manual movement,
- A Chronograph " only ", without any extra complication,
- A well finished movement.
All this for a decent price... Hence the absence of any extra complication, or the preference for a steel case, despite the low production, as this chronograph is a limited edition of 50 pièces only.
That being reminded, let's see, once again, this special Chronograph, in the détails.
1/ The case:
The proportions are very interesting with a diameter of 42 mm and a height of 11, 50 mm, the case is well balanced and pleasant to the eye.
A tad smaller would have been in my opinion, greater, but conceiving a Watch is a matter of compromise, and it seemed that 42 mm was more popular.
The finish of the case, brushed on its side, with a polished bezel, is a classic in fine watchmaking. Good point.
I am less fan of the massive and short lugs, I would have preferred something slimmer, more sensual, but once again, this is my personal taste.
On the other hand, I love the massive and full of character round pushers, and the big crown ( which is 8 mm big ).
2/ The dial:
Black is wonderful. It blends elegance and strenght. Enamel would have been even greater, but the price would have been higher, too.
Here, the black dial is laquered, to give the look of porcelain, without the inherent inconvenient of fragility from this material.
What I appreciate a lot is the way the time and the chronograph are treated, with distinctive colors ( red for the chronograph hands / silver for the time ). It is a detail which is rarely seen on modern chronographs. Excellent point.
The other detail which I find great is the shape of the hours and minutes hands, " fusée. Original and very nice looking.
The two chrono subdials are bigger than the small seconds at 6, reminding that Chopard thought about making a Chronograph, not adding a chronograph in a Watch which is too often the case.
Now, personally, I would have removed the roman numbers, and replace them by arabic numbers, or just a 6 and a 12, for an even cleaner dial.
3/ The movement:
The Cal 03. 07 L is an evolution of the Cal 03. 03 L, which was an automatic movement.
In the case of the 03. 07 L, the rotor and the automatic parts were removed, to get a manual winding movement, to enhance the pleasure of seeing the whole movement.
A finely finished movement... For it, Chopard opted for german silver ( Maillechort in French ), and decorated it in the pure tradition of fine watchmaking: Perlage, anglage and Cotes De Genève.
Another great detail is that you have a flyback ( reset to zero and start ) and a hacking second, to remind that this Watch is not only a ChronoGRAPH but also a ChronoMETER, submitted to the COSC.
Of course, you have a column Wheel and a vertical clutch.
The movement is a bit small, with a diameter of 28, 80 mm, which makes me think that a 40 mm case would have been better for the dial. But Chopard adapted this rather small movement in a clever way, as you can see through the case back, with a " ring " which is shaped as an arenan which fills in an elegant way the space between the case and the movement.
A smaller case would have allowed to remove the roman numbers, and to choose a 6 / 12 configuration without any sensation of emptyness, too, as the Chrono subdials would have been slightly decentered.
The Cal 03. 07 beats at the pace of 28 800 vibrations per hour, and offers an excellent power reserve of 60 hours.
Place to the real pictures, now:
What I like a lot is the idea behind the Watch, born from the friendship between the PuristS and Chopard, the manual winding movement, the fact this is a flyback and hacking seconds, and a Chronometer, the design of the hands, the black dial.
I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removing the automatic parts of the Cal 03. 03L. Of course, the price to pay would not be the same, though...
Still, a very interesting chronograph, which is not that common in the modern production.
Best,
Nicolas
This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-04-21 08:21:59
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition: Pictures and Hands On Review
I had to wait till last Monday to see this Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition in the real life. Melvyn already told you the story behind this Chronograph so I will make it short. PuristS and Chopard are long time friends, and once upon a tile, the ...
Thanks for the write up and photos Nicolas!
I think it's a beautiful chrono, and I'm not too crazy about current production chromosome. I don't have a problem with the Roman numerals, nor with the lugs. I do love the different colors for time and chrono on here. It reminds me of a stopwatch I had a...
As often, it is mandatory to judge a watch in the flesh.
Before expressing any judgement on it. I was happy to do so and wish you have the same opportunity. Best, my friend, and thanks for your input. Nicolas
More background on design choices
Nico, Thanks for your review. You wrote: "What I like a lot is the idea behind the Watch, born from the friendship between the PuristS and Chopard, the manual winding movement, the fact this is a flyback and hacking seconds, and a Chronometer, the design ...
Agreed that historical chronos are more desirable than gold ones.
And I am happy to see that this chrono has some good elements. Now the thing which most disturbs me is the origin of this chrono, I mean the automatic origins. Costs are one thing, yes. But I already had this issue with the JLC TT Geophysic. ;) Best, Nico...
That the movement is an evolution from a time-tested predicessor is, for me
a big, big PLUS, my friend! Thanks very much for sharing these thoughts, Nicolas. Best, CaliforniaJed Evolution is a beautiful thing, no?! ;-) ...
JLC did the same thing with the Alarm movement for their manual winding Memo.
They removed the rotor and the auto parts of the Cal 918 et voilà, the Cal 914 was born! Best, Jed. Nicolas
Perhaps that description is a bit unfair in the case of this movement,
no, my friend? Your point is taken, though, and appreciated. Best, CaliforniaJed
Thanks Nicolas for the review on the Chopard PuristS Edition
Nice pics. I still remember session at IGOTT2 in Vegas when we were all discussing the various elements and fine details about this chronograph. Thanks for this review. Regards, ED-209
I echo some of your sentiments
" I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial " and for me, a greater contrast between the hands and the dial would have improved my ability (old eyes) ...
LOL I'm sure it was the 'evil' twin!
:) I believe that pic was from a Perpetual GTG at the Rainbow several years ago? Regards, ED-209
Thanks a lot for your review.
When I read the conclusion. " I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removi...
With a 6 / 12 config, I rather see an hommage to the Classics rather than a 1000 Miglia.
By Classics, I mean Classic Chronos such as...Pateks, Vacherons... With all arabic numbers, why not, with a smaller case, it would widen the hommage to Longines, Minerva, well, not bad references. It is not easy to make a chrono for PuristS, indeed. But a...
I love so many details on this watch
The case, the handwind movement without date, the pushers, the hands, the subdials layout, the smaller small seconds - everything I enjoy. But I just don't agree with the dial. Vintage style with Roman numerals and red on black. Too sporty of a color comb...
