MTF
[PuristS]
13383
More background on design choices
Nico,
Thanks for your review.
You wrote:
"What I like a lot is the idea behind the Watch, born from the friendship between the PuristS and Chopard, the manual winding movement, the fact this is a flyback and hacking seconds, and a Chronometer, the design of the hands, the black dial.
I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removing the automatic parts of the Cal 03. 03L. Of course, the price to pay would not be the same, though..."
You are correct that personal choice had an influence but both Chopard and PuristS were also constrained by other considerations.
Cost was a factor but more importantly, was "value" because with a big budget, anyone can design anything.
Horological Value is a different metric. At the time of design, global price of gold was very high as a result of economic uncertainty and warfare. If we had made the dial from solid gold disc as originally planned, it would have been another $2000 even without grand feu enamel.....
The choice of steel case was not only for cost reasons but also following the idea that historic steel case chronographs are more desirable than gold ones. This is particularly because of the current rule at L.U.C to propose all their L.U.C movements only in precious metal cases.
Another rule broken is that the launch of any new L.U.C movement was always in a gold case. With the L.U.C 1963 PuristS chronograph, a exception from the rule was made.
The fifty L.U.C 03.07-L movements in the PuristS' edition have an additional suffix 'P' because they are different from the ones used in gold cases. It is 'sans quantième' and had to be specially homologated with Geneva Seal with different crown setting mechanism and dial side finishing.
The choice of Roman numerals is linked with the original watch dials when the family bought Chopard in 1963. As this is a tribute to that year, the L.U.C 1963 watch family must have roman numerals for time display and Arabic numbers for chronograph function. That, led to the choice of 42mm case size for dial space and proportion, as you surmised.
The case shape and lugs are set by the L.U.C 1963 watch family motif having curved case bands with vertical brushed finish and short lugs to cater for smaller wrists.
Regards,
MTF
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition: Pictures and Hands On Review
Thanks for the write up and photos Nicolas!
As often, it is mandatory to judge a watch in the flesh.
More background on design choices
Agreed that historical chronos are more desirable than gold ones.
That the movement is an evolution from a time-tested predicessor is, for me
JLC did the same thing with the Alarm movement for their manual winding Memo.
Perhaps that description is a bit unfair in the case of this movement,
Thanks Nicolas for the review on the Chopard PuristS Edition
I echo some of your sentiments
LOL I'm sure it was the 'evil' twin!
Thanks a lot for your review.
With a 6 / 12 config, I rather see an hommage to the Classics rather than a 1000 Miglia.
