Chopard

Chopard event at the Paris boutique: the selection of wristshots

 

It was a great pleasure for all the guests including several Purists members from Paris (we were missing one from the other side of the Channel who lives close to the sheeps...) to attend this nice event organized by the Paris boutique with the presence of two representatives of the HQ! For me, it was a good opportunity a few weeks after Baselworld to check if my first thoughts about the 2015 Chopard collection were still valid. It was also the perfect context to discover the renovated first floor of the boutique.

I really appreciated this first floor (sadly I didn't take any picture of it but I will correct this mistake soon), very classy and very comfortable at the same time. And good news for the pictures: the lights are well located and powerful enough to enjoy the beauty of the pieces. Because if we forget this important parameter for the photographers, the ability to enjoy the details of the watches and of the jewels is as important for the clients! So good point for Chopard thanks to the involvement of their preferred lighting architects who also come from Switzerland!

Anyway, let's come back to the watches. Since I know that several attendees will come back to them, I would like to focus this report on the feeling on the wrist with the classic and always mandatory wristshots!

Let's start with the LUC Regulator. Chopard has unveiled for many years regulator watches but maybe with more original designs. I was not fully convinced when I read the press release. I found the watch a bit too confusing. Then I saw it in Basel and I changed my mind. Of course, it is a big watch (43mm) but in the context of the regulator, it is not a problem since the hours have to be readable enough. And Chopard paid a lot of attention to this topic since they are displayed on an unusual subdial at 3 o'clock! You don't need to fully raise your shirt sleeve to read the hours.

The power reserve is 9 days as displayed on top of the dial... this regulator belongs to the Quattro family thanks to its 4 barrels. Obviously, you will also notice the second timezone display.

It is at the end a piece I like even if it is not my first option: I'm not a regulator guy. But the beauty of its dial and its clever lay-out make it appealing.

Let's stay within the Quattro family with the Platinum version.

It is not a pure novelty since it is the redesign of a famous watch in the Chopard collection. But what an improvement... at least from my perspective! The watch looks now much contemporary while keeping its timeless approach. The nicely integrated power reserve display on top brings an originality on the dial. Its best asset is without any doubt the blue/grey colour very difficult to catch due to its subtility.

On the other hand, I'm still less convinced by the date display using two rows and which gives a slight feeling of unbalance on the dial due to its size and location. But believe me, even with this small concern, you will be quickly and inevitably seduced by the charm of this large (43mm), powerful and refined watch.

Shall I need to introduce this one? The LUC 1963 Chronograph, even out of this specific edition is a great achievement from Chopard. I was not fully attracted by the Roman numerals at the beginning but when I saw this watch along with the Quattro, I understood all the interest to use them. They create, when combind with the typical hands style elements shared in common by several LUC watches.

The black dial of the Purists edition makes it smaller on the wrist and the removal of the date display is a great idea at least for me! One of the nicest handwind chronographs from the current offers of the high end brands. Due to its dark dial, the presence of several subdials, I found the 42mm diameter adequate.

When I arrived in Basel, I didn't think that I could be seduced by a LUC XPS which is not a watch I observe in top priority when I have appointments with Chopard. But this one changed my mind. This LUC XPS, even if I forget its highly respectable Fairmined label, features a beautiful slate grey dial. Actually, I had the feeling that this dial was designed by a magnet, like if magnetic fields would have drawn these patterns.

The watch is a bit large for a pure dress watch (39,5mm) but this dial requires enough space to be really enjoyable. The applied indexes, the shy second hand even manage to reinforce the charm of the watch. One of my fav watches of the Fair.

The long power reserve is a Chopard speciality! Frankly speaking I was happy to see this watch, not because I was expecting it but because it is for me a purer version of the Triple Certification Tourbillon I have always found overloaded. The 1963 LUC Tourbillon is an elegant 40mm watch with (again) a power reserve of 9 days. I like the way the power reserve indicator combines with the central and circular railroad.

Two features have to be underlined:

- the typical Tourbillon bridge (I find it a bit too visually present but it is a true part of Chopard style)
- and of course, the white Grand Feu enamel dial with black transfer.

I was impressed by this flawless dial not because it is an enamel dial but because it is an enamel dial with a large opening and with two slight different layers at the power reserve indicator and at the bottom of the Tourbillon.

A balanced watch and one of the nicest Tourbillon piece from Chopard. By the way, did I mention that despite these 4 barrels, the winding feeling is very smooth? Take any watch with the 9 days power reserve and wind it. You will judge by yourself.

We leave the LUC collection to enter the Mille Miglia one. But this year, good news! Two of 3 Mille Miglia GTS use movements coming from Fleurier Ebauches Workshops which is good news and raise their interest.

For this kind of watch, I always prefer to go direct to the point and to avoid any unecessary style effect. It is the reason why my fav is the simplest, the Automatic.

The Power Control features a power reserve indicator on the left. Some may think that it balances the dial in a way like a visual counterweight of the Mille Miglia arrow on the right. Why not. You can notice the typical oversized 12 and the nice combo of the colours.

The 43mm case is the right size for this casual watch and I wasn't surprised by it. Moreover, the rubber strap plays efficiently its role. Obviously, the bracelet will also do it but since it wasnt at my size, I can't tell you more. It is just a matter of taste but I tend to consider that a Mille Miglia watch should use the rubber strap. I have problems to imagine it without.

For both Automatic and Power Control, the power reserve is 60 hours.

The Power Control:

And the Automatic:

I would like to end this report with a watch which not a novelty but which symbolizes the excellence of Chopard. The LUC Louis Ulysse The Tribute. It is a watch I shot several years ago at the Madrid boutique. I was happy to see it again. Of course, it is not the easiest to wear. Of course, its size (49,6mm) and its white porcelain-type dial make it very big on the wrist. But what a watch... and above all... what a movement.

The movement was developed by Chopard and the Ecole Horlogère de Genève (Geneva Watchmaking School). The signature of the school is visible on one of the bridges:

This is the watchmaking approach I like. But don't be wrong! This movement has a 3hz frequency and not a 2,5hz one!

We will have the opportunity to come back later on the LUC Louis Ulysse The Tribute (I think that Nicolas will prepare a topic on it)... a watch which symbolizes the past (the Tribute), the present of the brand (it is in the current collection) and its future due to the partnership with the School. I thought it was a nice way to end the report with such symbol.

Thanks again to the Chopard team for the organization of the event and the warm welcome.

Fx

This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-04-15 13:45:53

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