Chopard

Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Chopard

 

Chopard is a manufacturer that is active in three of the main playing fields in watchmaking, the manufacture level, the sports level and the jewellery level.

Particularly in the first level the company was (and is) tremendously active, not only in terms of in-house developed and produced movements (Manufacture Fleurier), but also in furthering the industrial stanrdards of watchmaking (Fleurier Quality Foundation).

Chopard also offers watches that fullfill the standards set by the Poiçon de Genève as well as with the Fleurier Quality Foundation:

Thus, Chopard has earned an excellent reputation among watch collectors which in turn raised the bar of expectations in respect to the BaselWorld 2012 novelties.

Chopard did deliver, in the high-performance, complication as well as entry-level sectors of the market. We’ll present them in that order and add some mindblowing jewellery pieces to ice the cake.

L.U.C

 1996 – Chopard introduced a collection called L.U.C with some outstanding movements, created at Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. All L.U.C timepieces are chronometer certified (COSC) and to look at them is (in general) a feast for the eyes. Only the cases have been somehow “shiny” and not for everybody’s taste. The L.U.C watches have their own design and show strong DNA, most of the time. So let´s have a look at the latest developments.

 

L.U.C 8HF

A thoroughbred ‘racing car’ equivalent in the world of watches, the L.U.C 8HF is streamlined for timepkeeping precision. Towards this end Chopard tuned the Swiss lever escapement to beat at 57,600 A/h (8 Hz).

It also successfully submitted the new movement – designated Cal. L.U.C 01.06-L – to the tests conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), making the movement the

“first ever movement with a high-frequency escapement to be chronometer-certified by the COSC.” [Press Kit]

Chopard claims the benefits of the high-beat escapement to comprise:

·        significant improvement in the precision timekeeping properties of a calibre, particularly in terms of rate resumption and stability

·        lower sensitivity of the balance to disturbances,

·        enhanced reliability and consequently increased precision

They achieved this by making extensive use of silicium escapement parts and a new means of fixing silicon on steel (patent pending). Chopard also managed to achieve a 60h power reserve generated by a single barrel.

But there is more to it:

“In addition to its COSC certified precision, this L.U.C 01.06-L movement is distinguished by the highly adaptable nature of its high-frequency escapement, since it is indeed compatible with almost all existing L.U.C movements developed by Chopard Manufacture – a major step forwards that further consolidates the coherent nature of the company’s Fine Watchmaking collection.” [Press Kit]

Design-wise the watch shows its engineering-focused creation. The frosted dial has two levels for minutes and hours…

… as well as a separate subdial for the (extremely smooth!) small seconds at seven o’clock:

The 42mm case is a three-part monobloc design crafted from titanium that – in terms of construction – strikingly resembles the Ochs und Junior cases (they use an even simpler two-part design): Bezel/case band and caseback/lugs:

Like a Superleggera Italian sporscar it feels light and powerful on the wrist:

L.U.C Lunar One

 

The watch in general is not new and was released in 2005, but there are changes … improvements … so let´s have a look.

Poinçon de Genéve quality hallmark, Cótes de Genéve adorned bridges …

… micro-rotor …

 

Movement:

• Mechanical self-winding:                                          L.U.C 96.13-L

• Power reserve:                                                            70 hours

The L.U.C Lunar One is designed to match the evolution in the criteria governing the granting of the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, which as of 2012 no longer merely set the seal of approval on the craftsmanship of the movement alone, but now on that of the watch as a whole.

Is there anything that you don´t like?

 

Polished on the back side …

… matt finished on the side, it works very well together.

 

The polished and satin-brushed lugs have been entirely redesigned to ensure enhanced comfort and perfect stylistic equilibrium. To make it short: good job!

The hours are now displayed as Roman numerals; the readability has been optimized …

 

“Old” versions versus new version :

Still there is the same kind of design approach, but everything looks “sharper” and more refined.
The hands have never been better and the quality of the straps seems to be superior as well.

L.U.C Lunar Twin

 

Moon phase indications are something for the “heart” and this one is very appealing – poetic & technical at the same time. The writing around the indication and the dial itself looks more technical, which is not a bad thing in that case.

It looks nice on the PR pictures and even nicer in the metal. Especially the matt finished parts of the case are very pleasant. The crown looks solid and feels solid.

 

The silver-toned sunburst satin-brushed dial offers a nice contrast against the polished hour indications and hands and fits very well with the blue/silver moon indication.

The moon-phase display indicating the two hemispheres is elegantly off-centred at 1 o’clock and the indication is so precise that the difference between the mechanism and the actual lunar cycle amounts to just one day every 122 years. The latter is not that special anymore these days, but still rare.

40mm is a good size for such a watch and water resistant to 30 meters should be enough.

 The movement is caliber 96-21-L, an automatic movement with 2 barrels and 65h power reserve.

To us it has only one “flaw” (more on this later), but it is great from the backside. It looks even nicer inside the watch …

The micro-rotor, the layout, the finish … what is not to like?

 

The date through window at 4 o´clock is the “Achilles heel” of the watch, because it is needed to have one and looks like a hole. The movement is constructed like this, but it is not a lucky solution when it comes to beauty – at least from our point of view.

 

On the wrist it looks and feels wonderful

L.U.C XP Skeletec

Currently a skeletonized watches seems to be like a “must have” in every collection and most of the “big” brands have at least one in the offering. In that case it is the first skeletonised calibre produced by Chopard Manufacture. This one is very classic and well done, nothing more nothing less. Maybe the hands from the above family members could have been the missing spice …

Case :

·      18-carat rose gold

·      Total diameter                                                                                            39.50 mm

·      Thickness                                                                                                      7.13 mm

·      Water resistance                                                                                       30 metres

 

Classic Manufactum

The fact the Chopard inaugurated this movement alongside with an entire new (& dedicated) collection hints already that the Cal. 01.04-C is considered a most interesting and perhaps also a most important new in-house movement:

Chopard writes:

“the calibre Chopard 01.04-C, a new mechanical self-winding movement entirely developed in-house and produced in the workshops of Fleurier Ebauches, the Chopard Group unit in charge of the industrial production of movements not destined for its L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collection. After certain models of the Imperiale collection in 2011, it is now the turn of the first timepiece in the Classic collection to receive an “in-house” movement.” [Press Kit]

It’s a rather conventional automatic movement, designed and built in-house, with a sole extravaganza in form of a generous 60h power reserve. Design and finish have large-scale production at a certain (affordable) price in mind:

That notwithstanding, it’s an attractively looking movement that serves as ‘entry-drug’ for price-conscious connoisseurs. The equivalent of Zenith’s Elite movement, if you like.

It is therefore not surprising that the new ‘Classic Manufactum’ collection is what its name already hints, beautifully designed classic watches that certainly will appeal to many. These 38mm watches come in white yellow or red gold:

The dials have an appealing porcelain-type finish with shiny black numerals:

Another notch to the past are the filigree lugs:

On the wrist the watches immediately feel at home and certainly will provide pleasure for a long period of ownership. An aspect that cannot be underestimated for the target group, quite a few of them will only buy one fine watch in their lives:

Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set

Definitely not for the ‘average’ watch enthusiast in any sense of the word, but a remarkable watch nonetheless. This is high-end watchmaking and jewellery combined in a 42mm white gold case:

“The 18-carat white gold is set using the snow setting technique, which is particularly hard to master because it combines brilliant-cut diamonds of varying diameters. It is also adorned with a row of baguette-cut diamonds and a power-reserve indicator set with amethysts. The white gold crown features baguette- and briolette-cut diamonds, while oval-cut cabochons and baguette-cut diamonds adorn the bezel, lugs and bracelet.” [Press Kit]

Power reserve indicator …

… and tourbillon …

… point to the hand-wound L.U.C 02.14-L calibre. It is driven by four stacked and series-coupled barrels (Quattro® technology) that ensure over 9 days (216 hours) of autonomy and a constant regularity of rate, certified by a COSC certificate. The movement is also certified by the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark (old revision).

Chopard rightfully calls this a “double demonstration of excellence” [Press Kit]!

 

 

Animal World Beetle Watch

We’d like to finish this report with the presentation of a breathtaking piece of human creativity, the Chopard Animal World Beetle Watch, which we think takes watchmaking to another level in terms of craftsmanship and aesthetics:

The motif of the bracelet is a Scarabeus beetle preparing a watch as food for its offspring (Magnus: as a biologist I have to protest here: a Scarabeus would never use its fronts legs to work the faeces (it forms ‘pills’ from it, put them into caves and lays its eggs on top) but always the hind legs! But I guess that would be unacceptable to a marketing devision ;-)!).

You might also be fooled to think its kissing the watch:

Watch:

Bracelet (note the outer elements in contrast to the inner ones!):

Clasp:

To put this piece in numbers:

·         Beetle watch: set with white diamonds and black diamonds on 18ct white gold.

·         Beetle: set with black diamonds (8cts), amethysts, emeralds, sapphires, garnets and lazulites on 18ct white gold

·         Bracelet: set with yellow diamonds (16cts) and black diamonds on 18ct yellow gold

·         Small beetle: set with black diamonds.

An amazing piece!

 

Conclusion

Chopard recently made an impressive foray into the realm of true vertically integrated manufactures. What impresses us is the clear and distinctive (aesthetical as well as technical) ‘Chopard identity’ of the movements.

Chopard also historically played well in the skilful combination of matchmaking with its equally (or even more?) renowned jewellery branch.

This year the brand made a very significant step into opening up manufacture watchmaking for a larger audience with the launch of its new base movement. This seems to be one of the trends of the 2012 vintage also seen by a (tiny but remarkable) few other brands, such as Breitling or Zenith. Looking a bit further into the future, and adopting a more pessimistic view on economic developments, this likely is be a clever move that might well pay out in a few years.

 

Magnus

Chopard never really was on my agenda, despite the brand’s acknowledged horological merits. Was it the somewhat (to my eyes) indifferent design?

This year changed a lot. For the first time the brand produced an extremely technical watch, inside but also outside (the L.U.C 8HF). It feels, it ticks, it sounds and it wears like such. I am instantly in love. A concept car analogon for the wrist. Who would have thought that?

The second ‘piece’ I adore is the Beetle watch. Here the brands really demonstrated what it could do, a marvellous blends of all its crafts and skills. Superbly designed and executed. Nothing I would buy, but I can see it becoming a real collector’s piece, one that is not only raved about but actually craved at if submitted to auctions a few decades ahead.

I also appreciate the L.U.C Lunar Twin. Regrettably Chopard ‘goofed’ with the date which excludes it decidedly from my buying list. A pity!

 

Oliver

Once more persuasively movements in the L.U.C collection and some precious temptations for friends of jewellery and jewellery watches. To me it seems like there is a strong commitment for serious watchmaking and they did a great job in general - not only in details. Less shiny cases and more refinement … plus a technical delicacy are something I liked a lot.

My top favourite from Chopard is the L.U.C 8HF, as well. The idea behind and the way they did it is great and was a big surprise to me. To be honest I didn´t expect something like this from that brand. It looks and feels like a professional “tool”, shows unique design and is a pleasure on the wrist. Even the price seems to be ok, for such a special & limited product. Congrats!

The Classic Manufactum is a nice addition and even when it is not “rocket science”, it will help to get new/more attention for the brand.

The beetle watch made me smile when I saw it and even now from the pictures only, there is a smile on my face. Outstanding crafts and great sense of humour is shown in that very special piece of art.

Magnus & Oliver

Site Info.

Privacy Policy Cookie Policy