L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier

Dec 01, 2010,08:03 AM
 

In homage to an artistic craft for which the village of Fleurier achieved fame from the 18th century onwards, Chopard is marking its 150th anniversary by presenting the L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier, a white gold timepiece issued in a 15-piece limited edition. Housing L.U.C Calibre 4TT3NGM, a movement chronometer-certified by the COSC, this watch gives pride of place to fleurisanne (Fleurier-style) engraving, a traditional and now virtually extinct form of local expertise.

 

Created to celebrate Chopard's 150th anniversary, the L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier is both a concentrated blend of technical expertise and a demonstration of a craft that has disappeared overtime. Beneath the generous satin-brushed dial, its broad opening beats the remarkable L.U.C Calibre 4TT3NGM, a mechanical hand-wound movement chronometer-certified by the COSC.

The L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier model is endowed with an over 8-day power reserve thanks to its four barrels. In addition to the tourbillon, it indicates the hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock and the power reserve at 2 o'clock. The rectangular shape of the tourbillon bridge, which is echoed on the crown, is a symbolic reminder of the historical sign on  the workshop of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.

This calibre is also distinguished by its mainplate and bridges crafted in 18-carat gold, further enhanced by the entirely hand-crafted fleurisanne engraving that makes each of these models truly one of a kind.

A speciality of the village of Fleurier that has been home to Chopard Manufacture since 1996, fleurisanne engraving is an almost extinct craft that earned local watches considerable fame since the 18th century and spread the appeal of their timepieces as far afield as China. This distinctive expertise is distinguished by its raised motifs: the engraver does not sculpt and engrave the motif he wishes to highlight, but instead "spares it" by removing the material surrounding it. Fleurisanne engraving thus exquisitely highlights motifs by making them literally stand out.

This extremely difficult craft calls for a great deal of time as well as absolute mastery. As part of its determination to revive historical watchmaking skills Chopard has trained expert in-house artists to perpetuate this style of engraving, which contributed over two centuries ago to spreading the reputation of Fleurier far and wide.

The L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier comes in an 18-carat white gold case measuring 40.5 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30 metres. It is issued in a limited edition of 15 watches.


Technical Characteristics


Case

* 18ct white gold

* Diameter 40.50 mm
* Thickness 10.90 mm
* Water-resistant to 30 metres
* 18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo 6.00 mm
* Glareproofed sapphire crystals on both sides with Chopard logo
* Open screw-in case-back with special engraving

Movement


* Mechanical hand-wound tourbillon calibre L.U.C 4TT3NGM

* Mainplate and bridges 18ct 3N solid gold
* Total diameter 29.60 mm
* Thickness 5.50 mm
* Number of jewels 33 rubies
* Frequency 28,800 vph
* 4 barrels
* Power reserve approx. 216 hours (over 8 days)
* Chronometer-certified (COSC)

Dial and hands


* Dial in 18-carat gold

* Silver-coloured circular satin-brushed base
* Broad opening beneath the 12 o'clock position
* "One-minute" tourbillon at 6 o'clock
* Gold applied Roman numerals and hour-markers
* Dauphine blued steel hour and minute hands
* Blued steel arrow-type small seconds hand

Functions and displays


* Central hour and minute hands

* Small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock
* Power-reserve display at 2 o'clock

Strap and buckle


* Hand-sewn alligator leather strap with brown alligator lining

* Pin buckle in 18-carat white gold

Ref. 161911-1001 Limited edition: 15 watches

 

 

 

L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier腕表 心系本土工藝   頌揚傳統精神

從18世紀起,瑞士的Fleurier村莊就以一項精美絕倫的手工藝聞名於世。為了向此傑出的手工藝致敬,同時慶祝蕭邦公 司創立150周年,蕭邦推出了L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier白金腕表,限量發行15枚。這款腕表搭載經瑞士官方天文臺(COSC)認證的L.U.C Calibre 4TT3NGM精密機芯,同時在最顯著的位置展現了歷史悠久但如今卻幾近絕跡的Fleurier風格雕刻藝術。

為 慶祝蕭邦150周年華誕而推出的L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier腕表,既集中體現了蕭邦非凡的製錶技術,又展示了一門隨著時間流逝而幾乎湮滅的古老手工藝術。緞面打磨的錶盤下,透過寬大的鏤空視窗,可 以欣賞到獲得COSC認證的L.U.C Calibre 4TT3NGM手動上鏈精密機械機芯,4個發條盒帶給腕表長達8日的動力儲存。除了引人注目的陀飛輪,腕表還具備時、分顯示,6時位元設有小秒盤,2時位 元設有動力儲存顯示。陀飛輪夾板呈長方形,與表冠的形狀相呼應,同時也令人想起Louis-Ulysse Chopard工作坊的歷史標誌。機芯主機板和夾板皆由18K金精心打造,更飾有全部以人手雕刻的Fleurier風格花紋,令每枚腕表都堪稱獨一無二的 藝術傑作。

自1996年起,蕭邦製錶廠(Chopard Manufacture)便於Fleurier安家落戶。這裏的雕刻工藝從18世紀以來就成為當地腕表的一大特色,為這些腕表錦上添花,並令其聲名遠揚, 連遙遠的中國也大有為其傾倒者。這門獨特的手工藝的與眾不同之處在於其浮雕圖案:雕刻師不是直接雕刻出他希望展示的圖案,而是把圖案周圍的物料逐一剔除, 令圖案自然而然浮現眼前。因此,Fleurier風格的雕刻工藝能夠精確地令需要表現的圖案脫穎而出,分外賞心悅目。這項難度極高的工藝需要花費大量的時 間並且需要雕刻師絕對掌握這門技藝。為了重振古老的製錶技術,蕭邦培育了自己的雕刻藝術家,將這種兩個多世紀以來令Fleurier名聞遐邇的雕刻藝術風 格發揚光大。

L.U.C Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier腕表的表殼為18K白金製造,直徑40.5毫米,防水30米。此款腕表限量發行15枚。


技術特點


表殼

*       18K白金
*       直徑                                                                   40.50毫米
*       厚度                                                                   10.90毫米
*       防水深度                                                            30米
*       18K白金表冠,飾有L.U.C標誌                           6毫米
*       防眩目藍寶石水晶玻璃表鏡及表底蓋,飾有蕭邦標誌
*       透明旋入式表底蓋雕刻有特別圖案

機芯

*       手動上鏈陀飛輪機械機芯                                     L.U.C 4TT3NGM
*       主機板和夾板                                                       18K 3N 實心金
*       總直徑                                                                  29.60毫米
*       厚度                                                                      5.50毫米
*       紅寶石數量                                                           33枚
*       振頻                                                                      28,800次/小時
*       4個發條盒
*       動力儲存                                                              約216小時(超過8日)
*       瑞士官方天文臺(COSC)認證


錶盤及指針

*       18K金錶盤
*       底部為銀色圓形緞面打磨
*       12時位置下有大型鏤空視窗
*       6時位設有1分鐘陀飛輪
*       嵌有金質羅馬數字及時標
*       藍鋼太子妃式時、分針
*       藍鋼箭頭形小秒針

 

功能及顯示

*       中央時、分針
*       6時位設有小秒盤
*       2時位元設有動力儲存顯示


錶帶及表扣

*       手工縫製短吻鱷魚皮錶帶,內層襯有棕色短吻鱷魚皮
*       18K白金針式表扣


參考編號161911-1001                      限量版:限量發行15枚

 

Press Release

 

 

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Live pictures unrecognised

 
 By: MTF : December 1st, 2010-13:03
So that was what this piece unrecognised at baselworld 2010 was? Extreme Left watch. Backsides MTF...  

For me, very nice except for the hands

 
 By: ArthurSG : December 1st, 2010-18:06
given the rest of the watch and the nice more classic engraving, the TECH liek skeleton hands don;t quite gel. If the more traditional hands in like say the Lunar One or Regulateur non tech versions was used, this will be a home run for me.

LOVE it! Favorite watch of this week for me.

 
 By: dxboon : December 2nd, 2010-03:25
Thanks for the post, Kong! I love this piece. The contrast of traditional Fleurier-style engraving with the L.U.C. Tech dauphine hands is awesome. The push-pull effect of old world decoration and modern design is making me salivate! I think the Tech hands...  

stunning.....

 
 By: playtime : December 2nd, 2010-07:30
a marvel in craftsmanship--and composition. I love how the seconds dial is situated with the tourbillon, as well as how the gold contrasts with the dial. thanks for sharing, J

Beautiful rear bridge...

 
 By: patrick_y : December 2nd, 2010-22:43
A beautiful and enticing rear bridge with classical engravings. Being a big fan of engraved art (anything from Purdey hunting rifles to watches), I find that I rarely dislike anything with fine engravings. Thank you for the focus and perspective Kong!

Breathtaking!!

 
 By: Forsei : December 3rd, 2010-03:49
What a remarkable piece of art.