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L.U.Chopard Qualité Fleurier 2014: Ten Testing Years

L.U.Chopard Qualité Fleurier 2014: Ten Testing Years

L.U.C movements, entirely developed, crafted and assembled at Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier since 1996, represent the quintessence of Haute Horlogerie, cultivated in harmony with the spirit of the brand founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Chopard had already submitted on three separate occasions one of their model families to the Fleurier Quality Foundation tests – an independent certification reputed to be extremely difficult to obtain.

After the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model in 2005, the L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier in 2009, and the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon in 2011, Chopard unveiled a new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model in 2014 bearing the prestigious label.

Chopard is the brand that has certified the most watches since the creation of the QF certification, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

I have never seen or held any QF certified watch from other brands.....yet.

We have received press announcements from two other brands embarking on FQF certification but I've only held Chopard FQF watches in my hands...see below.

L.U.Chopard Qualité Fleurier Chronometer version 1 in 2005

L.U.Chopard Qualité Fleurier Chronometer version 2 in 2008

L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier version 3 in 2009

L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier version 4 in 2012

A PuristS' Visit to the Fleurier Quality Foundation was reported by AndrewD.  [CLICK the following URL link to read]:

chopard.watchprosite.com

There are 5 criteria to pass the Fleurier Quality Foundation [QF] certification. The Technical Committee oversees five stages of testing, making it possible to determine whether the timepiece meets the established criteria.

1 - Manufactured 100% in Switzerland

This guarantees that all the operations: the concept, manufacture, assembly, and the control of the watch head and its components, have been carried out in Switzerland (with the exception of non-tooled materials). The requirements for "Manufactured 100% in Switzerland" concern only the watch head, with the exclusion of the bracelet and clasp.

The watch head is considered as consisting of three parts: the case, the display, and the complete movement with its casing ring. The origin of the materials can be chosen at will, but they must be processed in Switzerland. The processing of materials into semi-finished advanced products (cut out, stamped or formed movement blanks) and into finished products must be carried out on Swiss soil, with the exception of rolling, drawing, and wire drawing. The different types of treatment, decoration and finishing that are applied to the components (heat treatments, electroplating, metallisation, PVD, CVD, chamfering, polishing, satin-finishing, circular graining, etc.) must also be carried out in Switzerland, as is the case for jewel-setting.

The concept, the construction and the prototypes of the watch head must be carried out in Switzerland. The various stages of the assembly after the final transformation of the materials, pre-fitting, fitting, fitting the escapement, adjusting, finishing, assembly, casing and the final controls must be carried out in Switzerland.

2 - Validation of the technical and aesthetic criteria

In order to perform controls of the technical and aesthetic criteria, the applicant deposits the movement of the watch to be certified (presented as a kit) at the offices of the Foundation. The plate, bridges, complete barrel, oscillating weight, wheels, profile-turned or profiled-turned and cut parts, as well as the shaped parts, are set aside and submitted to a visual examination at a distance of 30 cm, and then under the no. 3 microscope setting.

The main aesthetic criteria:

Decoration must be visible on the maximum thickness of the mainplate or on the visible part of the bridge, by a selective process of the zone to be decorated, as well in the main recesses. The parts must not have any rough sharp angles and the countersinks must be polished. No burrs must be visible and the functional zones of the steel parts must be polished. The screw-heads must be flat and polished, chamfered on the slot and around the rim. The shaped parts must be chamfered and polished, if possible with strokes drawn out with a file.

The location in which the design is created is left to the appreciation of the brands.
Certain procedures or treatments may not be available in Switzerland. In such cases, the group of experts who handle this subject must be notified. The cutting of precious stones may be carried out in countries other than Switzerland.

The applicant must provide the group of experts with a duly completed control protocol, indicating – for the case, the display and the movement – the location in which each operation and manufacturing process for each component took place, including the identify of possible suppliers and subcontractors. On request by the group of experts, proof must be provided (delivery note, certificate of origin, etc.). The applicant must also be available for possible audits carried out at its manufacturing site and those of its sub-contractors.

3 - The CHRONOFIABLE test

Movements submitted for Fleurier Quality Foundation certification must have passed the CHRONOFIABLE test which comprises several stages:

An ageing cycle, test cycles designed to measure the pull-and-push forces on the stem, the pushbuttons and on the rotating bezel if there is one; tests on reactions to magnetic fields, shock-resistance tests using a heavy pendulum or striker, except for complications, as well as several water-resistance tests.

The Chronofiable test takes the form of various stages:

 - an ageing cycle,
 - test cycles designed to measure the pull-and-push forces on the stem,
 - test cycles designed to measure the forces exerted on the pushbuttons (chronograph controls, correctors, etc.) turning bezel,
 - tests on reactions to magnetic fields,
 - shock-resistance tests using a heavy pendulum or striker, except for delicate complications,
 - water resistance test.

The following number of watch heads are required to be submitted for the CHRONOFIABLE tests:
5 units (if the model is produced in a series of 1 to 100);
10 units (from 101 to 200 production units);
20 units (over 201 production units).

4 - The COSC test

100% of movements submitted for Fleurier Quality Foundation certification must have successfully passed the COSC test.
The Fleurier Quality certification, involving the highest demands in terms of craftsmanship, is based on the complementary nature of these tests. The Fleuritest verifies the accuracy of the watch in a dynamic manner by simulating real-life wear over a 24-hour period and involves testing the watch in its final form. The COSC works with tests performed in static mode over a 15-day period and at different temperatures, on the non cased-up movement. Combining these two control procedures guarantees incomparable precision.

5 - The FLEURITEST

This machine, specially invented at the time of establishing the Fleurier Quality Foundation certification, is used to perform the last stage of control: the regularity of rating of the movement, once cased up within the watch in its final form. A positive result in this test ensures future owners of the high aesthetic and technical quality of their watch.

A 24-hour operating test is conducted on the machine. The originality of its procedure lies in the computer-driven simulation of conditions in which the watch will be worn. Depending on the programming, the Fleuritest machine is capable of reproducing the activities of a man or woman in all possible types of activity, making it possible to alternate between active, highly active and calm phases (e.g. sport, a typical working day, etc…).

Variations in rate are analysed using a digital camera image acquisition system. The precision of the movement rating must fall within the range of 0 to +5 seconds per day.

At the end of the test, if the watch has passed, a certificate is delivered for each watch head. The watch is then entitled to the certification "FQF La Haute Horlogerie certifiée".

What do you think of the most dangerous test in the world for watches?  

Can your favourite watch survive it?

Regards,

MTF

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